Life after Reuters - Stephen Powell shines a light on the beauty of Mozambique

Old Africa hand Stephen Powell explored the under-reported country of Mozambique for his third travel book, driven by a desire to highlight positive stories beyond the well-worn clichés of poverty and war. 

“My motivation was partly to see a country I didn’t know at all, but I also wanted to write about people doing inspiring work,” said Powell, whose exploration was greatly helped by having learned Portuguese when Reuters posted him to Brazil 40 years ago.

“Bad guys when they are powerful get so much attention. To redress the balance a little, freelance journalists are at liberty to put the spotlight on good guys. I consciously try to do this as a roving reporter,“ he said.

“In Mozambique I went to the Gorongosa National Park to talk to the Idaho millionaire Greg Carr. He has spent more than $100 million helping to restore the park, which was ravaged by civil war.

“Some species - hyenas, leopards, jackals and painted wolves - disappeared. Now the wildlife has returned and Gorongosa has become a role model for Africa. The key is deep engagement with local people and Gorongosa does that brilliantly, introducing new crops, expanding education and health facilities.”

In a very different vein, Powell also went to Moatize, a coal-mining town. He reported on an initiative by the town’s inhabitants to take on the Indian owners of the mine, whom they accused in an open letter signed by more than 300 people of committing a crime against humanity because of the environmental pollution caused by the black dust clouds from mine explosions, the depletion of water resources in a region hit by drought and the loss of agricultural land and jobs outside mining.  

“One thing I try to do is to take my time,” Powell said. “Journalists are generally under serious time pressure and those of us who are retired from full-time work can gift our time. I spent about three months in Mozambique, with a little side-trip into Malawi. In Moatize I spent several days talking to people. I was very moved by the commitment of one man in particular, businessman Amadssen Veterano, who has thrown his energy into campaigning for less pollution. Veterano is married with four daughters but he was tireless in the work he did for the community.”

With the caveat that there is an Islamic State insurgency in the north - where foreigners are advised not to travel - Powell said he recommended Mozambique as a travel destination. The country is two-and-a-half times the size of the United Kingdom and it should be easy to steer clear of trouble, he said.  He found the people very friendly and the landscapes, in particular the coast, supremely beautiful. 

“The roads can be awful, but nowhere’s perfect, and visitors need have no concerns about over-tourism.”

Powell spent 27 years as a Reuters correspondent. His postings included Abidjan, covering French-speaking Africa, and he also worked as Chief Correspondent Brazil and chief taster of the Asia Desk in Singapore. He has previously published books on the South Caucasus and Portugal.

Letters from Mozambique, with illustrations by Powell’s daughters Megan and Rachel, is published by SilverWood Books on January 10, and can be bought from them, Amazon or other major outlets.

Photo shows a dhow in front of a Portuguese fort on the Ilha de Moçambique, for centuries the effective capital of Portuguese East Africa.

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